Optimum Health


Cast Iron Cookware- Or, How to Get Rid of that Toxic Non-stick Stuff you’ve Had Forever.

iron pan A heavy, but essential, addition to the kitchen, cast-iron cookware is dependable and full of history.

The other day someone asked me how I cooked eggs or hash browns without a non-stick skillet. I told them I used my 100 year old cast-iron skillets, wonderfully non-stick because I keep them seasoned correctly, never, ever use soap in them…eggs and hash brown slide right out.  I have a 6 inch skillet, 2 12 inch skillets, a 12 inch round griddle with a handle, a 30 year old 12 inch Dutch oven with a lid and an antique cast iron waffle maker with a iron ring to use on the stove top.

They all perform beautifully.  There is no reason to pay more for a pre-seasoned pan, or pans such as La Crueset with enamel that cost a small fortune. These pan are non-stick when seasoned, and kept that way.

Besides being an ideal heat conductor, cast iron heats evenly and consistently, it is inexpensive and will last a lifetime (actually several lifetimes) with proper care, and it is an old-fashioned way to cook non-stick. When well seasoned, a cast-iron pan will be stick resistant and require no additional oil. 

The benefits of cast-iron pans are terrific: Foods glide out of it as from no pan made with Teflon; it goes from stove to oven; no special utensils are needed to cook in it and cleanup is a cinch. It’s time people realize the culinary wonder that a cast-iron pan can be!

As a chef, I consider cast-iron pans to be precision cooking tools, as these dependable pans enable precise control of cooking temperatures. Their heat retention qualities allow for even cooking temperature without hot spots. Cast-iron pans can be used on top of the stove or to bake in the oven. All our grandmothers had cast iron skillets and stove-top griddles. In fact, your grandmother swore by it and the pioneers depended on it.

If you don’t own a cast-iron skillet, it’s well worth the time and money to invest in one. You can find them for sale on the internet, at cook stores everywhere, thrift stores, flea markets, or you can scour the tag and yard sales for one that might look as if it has seen better days. If the pan is rusty or encrusted with grease, buy it anyway. Don’t worry! I’ll tell you how to get that new or old one into shape so you can enjoy it for a lifetime of non-stick cooking. You’ll be able to pass the pan on to your own children and grandchildren.

To season a new pan, or re-season one you have been abusing;

All new (not old pots) cast-iron pots and skillets have a protective coating on them, which must be removed. American companies use a special food-safe wax; imports are covered with a water-soluble shellac. In either case, scrub the item with a stainless steel scouring pads (steel wool), using soap and the hottest tap water you can stand.

If the pan was not seasoned properly or a portion of the seasoning wore off and food sticks to the surface or there is rust, then it should be properly cleaned and re-seasoned. Seasoning a cast iron pan is a natural way of creating non-stick cookware. And, like you cook and clean the modern non-stick cookware with special care to avoid scratching the surface, your cast iron cookware wants some special attention too.

You season a cast iron pan by rubbing it with a relatively thin coat of neutral oil (I stress a light coat of oil).

NOTE: NEVER use vegetable oils (canola, sunflower, etc.), or shortening (like Crisco shortening) to season your pan. These oils get very sticky when heated (the same as they do in your arteries!!)  Use coconut oil or  lard for seasoning your cast iron pans. You can also use butter.  

Place the cast iron pan, upside down, in the oven, with a sheet of aluminum foil on the bottom to catch any drips. Heat the pan for 2 hours in a 250 degree oven. Once done, let the pan cool to room temperature. Repeating this process several times is recommended as it will help create a stronger "seasoning" bond. 

The oil fills the cavities and becomes entrenched in them, as well as rounding off the peaks. By seasoning a new pan, the cooking surface develops a nonstick quality because the formerly jagged and pitted surface becomes smooth. Also, because the pores are permeated with oil, water cannot seep in and create rust that would give food an off-flavor.

Your ironware will be slightly discolored at this stage, but a couple of frying jobs will help complete the cure, and turn the iron into the rich, black color that is the sign of a well-seasoned, well-used skillet or pot.

Never put cold liquid into a very hot cast iron pan or oven. They will crack on the spot!

Be careful when cooking with your cast-iron pots on an electric range, because the burners create hot spots that can warp cast iron or even cause it to crack. Be sure to preheat the iron very slowly when using an electric range and keep the settings to medium or even medium-low.

Important:
Unless you use your cast-iron pans daily, they should be washed briefly with warm (not hot) water and a green scrubbie, then rinsed and thoroughly dried in order to rid them of excess surface oil. If you do not do this, the surplus oil will become rancid within a couple of days. After you clean the skillet (and this is easiest if you clean it while warm), rub a small amount of coconut oil over the surface.

Remember - Every time you cook in your cast-iron pan, you are actually seasoning it again by filling in the microscopic pores and valleys that are part of the cast-iron surface. The more you cook, the smoother the surface becomes!

Cast iron is 50 percent pig iron and 50 percent steel. It’s cooking properties have been championed and cherished for generations.

I use only cast iron or triple bottom stainless steel to cook. Cast iron for frying or scrambling eggs, frying bacon or steaks, sautéing onions or other veggies.  Never cook acidic food such as tomatoes in cast iron, you will remove the seasoning. 

I use my cast iron Dutch oven for sautéing roasts or other cuts of meat that I need to brown first, then finish in the oven. My favorite is a Provencal Chicken that I make a little bit of dough to seal the lid to the pot. It seals it completely and when the seal is broken the steam coming out with the smell of chicken, herbs and garlic is amazing!

The technology for making cast-iron cookware has come a long way in the last 100 years, but each piece is still cast in sand moulds. Yes, sand. This method goes back to the Chinese. At Lodge, the biggest cast iron company in the United States, the iron/steel mixture is melted with electro-magnetic heat to 2,500°F. The pouring of the molten metal into the sand moulds has been automated. It’s this automation that has made Lodge the industry leader–and survivor. They were also the first, and only, cast-iron company to offer a pre-seasoned pan. This means the pan is ready to go when you buy it.

iron pan Dutch oven griddle Cast iron choices Muffin pans



Kitchen Tools
December 16, 2008, 5:43 PM
Filed under: Tools- My recommendations

 

Cooking

- Two round skillets or sauté pans, with lids: one small (8”), one large (10-12”). Choose heavy ones with a thick bottom, as they will conduct the heat better. (A sauté pan has straighter and higher sides than a skillet, so you can flip the contents with one adroit shake of the pan, but in most recipes they are interchangeable.)
- Two saucepans, with lids: one small (1 quart), one large (quarts).
- A heavy pot or Dutch oven, for soups, stews, and no-knead bread. Choose a large one, round or oval, 6 to 8 liters/quarts in capacity. I wholeheartedly recommend a cast-iron cocotte, enamel-coated or not: it’s definitely an investment, but the heat conduction is perfect and it will last several lifetimes. I own one large and one smaller Le Creuset. Make sure the handle of the lid can take high temperatures without melting, so you can use your pot in the oven, too.
- A steamer insert, with lid, to steam vegetables and fish. I use a basic set of wire mesh baskets which you simply set over a pan of simmering water.

Not indispensable, but nice to have:

- An oval skilletclip_image001, to cook whole fish.
- A grill pan
clip_image001[1], to sear meat and give it those nice, appetizing grill marks.
- A ceramic terrine dish, with lid.

Baking

- A fluted 10-inch tart mold. This is a round and shallow metal pan that is used to bake dessert tarts. (I have a nonstick one with a removable bottom.)
- A 10-inch round springform cake pan, for cakes that can’t be turned out to be unmolded.
- Two or three 9-inch round cake pan to bake other cakes.
- A baking sheet. Some people are partial to silicone baking mats; I find them annoying to clean and dry, and I prefer to use a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
- A 10-inch quiche pan. This is a round pan made of glass or ceramic, deeper than a tart mold, in which to bake quiches and savory tarts.
- Two baking dishes, glass or ceramic: one medium (6 cups in capacity), one large (14 cups in capacity).
- A tray of muffin molds, to bake mini-cakes and mini-quiches. I have a preference for mini- or micro-muffin molds; they make for cuter and more reasonable servings.
- A loaf pan, about 8 cups in capacity.
- Cookie cutters. If you have room and budget for just one set, get shapes that do not scream “holidays” too loudly, so you can use them during the rest of the year, too. The most versatile one I have is a 2-1/3” round fluted cutter, which I also use for miniature tartlet crusts.

Not indispensable, but nice to have:

Pizza Stones- for the obvious, but I also leave them in my oven full time to help the oven stay at temp . It holds the heat, making it so the oven has to cut on and off as much, saving energy.

- A set of ceramic ramekins, to bake eggs, soufflés,flans and custards. They are also very handy to set ingredients aside as you measure them.
- A set of 4-inch tartlet molds, to make individual versions of savory or dessert tarts. (I have nonstick ones with removable bottoms.)
- An 7-inch charlotte mold; it can be used to bake small cakes and panettones, too.
- As many different silicon molds as you can possibly justify: I personally own (and use) trays of miniature tartlet molds, madeleine molds, and financiers molds, as well as a jelly roll mold.

Utensils

- A slotted turnerclip_image001[2], to lift and turn food in the skillet or sauté pan. Choose a heat-resistant one made of silicone or nylon so it won’t scrape your pans.
- A pair of tongs
clip_image001[3], to grab, flip, and arrange food in the pan as precisely as if you were using your fingers, minus the burns.
- Wooden spoons, to stir and mix. It’s nice to have at least two of these. Choose them with a long handle (about 30cm/12”) so your hand will be far from the heat source as you stir.
- A slotted spoon, to lift the solids from a pan and leave the liquids behind. Very handy to serve stews, too.
- A ladle, to transfer and serve soup.
- A heat-resistant silicone spatula
clip_image001[4], to scrape bowls to the last drop, and smooth out the surface of cake batters.
- A wire whisk.
- A set of measuring cups and spoons. I personally use the same set of cups to measure liquids and solids, and I am still alive.
- A nesting set of mixing bowls. It’s hard to have too many mixing bowls.  I have about 10, three of the huge ones and assorted sizes all the way down to 6 inches across.  Choose stainless steel; make sure they are stable and don’t tip over too easily. If you’re short on space, get glass or ceramic bowls attractive enough that they can also be used as salad bowls.
- Cutting boards. I myself am partial to wood
clip_image001[5]. (Note: to avoid cross-contamination, our friends the food safety experts say you should assign three different boards to work with produce, cooked products, and raw animal products.)
- At least three cooling racks, to speed up the cooling of baked goods so you can eat your cookies sooner.
- A fine-mesh sieve, to strain sauces and marinades. I use mine to sift the flour for cakes.
- A large colander, to drain pasta and set vegetables aside as you chop them. I like the wire mesh ones, you can use them for steaming foods also, stacked up!
- A salad spinner
clip_image001[6] to dry your salad greens. It does a good job with fresh herbs, too, no real need to get the miniature one.
- A pepper mill. I love the kind which you operate with one push of the thumb.
- A can opener, preferably one that also has a little metal lip to open jars of jam (and, incidently, bottles of beer).
- A nut cracker. I use a simple yet sturdy vintage one that I’ve had forever.

Not indispensable, but nice to have:

- An oven thermometer, to make sure your oven is not lying to your face. Hang the thermometer inside the oven and rely on it, rather than the thermostat, to know when the temperature is right.
- A lemon juicer. If you don’t have one, stick a fork in the flesh of a halved citrus: hold the fork in one hand, and squeeze the fruit over a small bowl with the other hand. Remove any seeds from the juice with the fork.
- A garlic press, to extract the pulp and juices from a clove of garlic without having to peel it, thus dodging the smell of garlic on your fingers. The garlic press can be an annoying animal to clean, but I use a toothbrush with good success.
- A mortar and pestle to make pesto the old-fashioned way (it does make a difference in taste), and grind spice mixes, nuts, or herbs. I have a large marble mortar and two Japanese surabachis, and use either depending on the volume of the stuff I have to grind. – A rolling pin. If you don’t have one, use a clean, tall, straight-sided bottle, such as a bottle of Bordeaux wine (remove the label).
- A pastry brush to apply egg wash, melted butter, or glaze on baked goods. If you don’t have one, use the back of a small spoon.
- A flexible baking spatula and cutter
clip_image001[7]. This is a thin, narrow, and long-bladed spatula (about 20cm/8”) that my friend Alisa gave to me as a gift, and it is incredibly handy for all manner of things: loosening and lifting baked goods from baking sheets, lifting a loaf of bread from the pot it has baked in, cutting and serving cakes, spreading icing… I’m still looking for things that it won’t do.
- A mini-torch to caramelize sugar on crèmes brûlées or tart crusts. You can buy it from a cooking utensils store, or just buy a small regular blowtorch at a hardware store.
- A sugar thermometer, for jams, caramel, and candy.
- A chocolate dipping fork. It is what chocolate makers use to make chocolate-dipped things : you melt some chocolate in a wide and not too shallow pan, you balance whatever it is you’d like to dip onto the tines of the fork, lower the fork into the chocolate, take it out, and deposit the coated bite on a special non-stick plastic sheet (“feuille guitare”) for it to dry and harden.
- A potato ricer.
- A meat cutting board with a trench that runs all around it, to save the juices.
- A meat fork to keep the roast/poultry in place as you carve it.
- A set of metallic serving circles (3” across) to create stacked desserts and vertical platings.

Sharp Things

Here’s my basic kit:

- A 10 inch Henkel for cutting potatoes, onions.

- A 8-inch Global chef’s knife , to cut, slice, mince, chop, and dice. I love my Global.

- A 4.5-inch Connoisseur paring knife for when the item to work on is small or handheld and more control is needed. I love my Connoisseur.


- A knife sharpener to keep these two knives happy. I use a flat stone. — I soak the stone in water first, set the knife at a 15° angle, and swish the blade away from me.

-A steel for sharpening after the knife has been on the stone.

-A diamond steel for getting the edge VERY sharp.

-A leather strop for finishing.

- A 10-inch serrated Henkel bread knife to slice bread and cakes without making a horror movie scene out of them.

- A swivel-bladed vegetable peeler. I use it to peel vegetables (how very creative of me), but also to cut shavings of chocolate (chill the chocolate first). It is worth investing in one that has a good, sharp blade; I am very happy with my OXO peeler

clip_image001[8]. – A four-sided box grater, for cheese and vegetables; my favorite side (of course one has to have a favorite side) is the large hole one. Again, make sure it is sharp as a whip (I can recommend the Gefu brand), otherwise the merest carrot to grate will be such a hassle you will stop eating grated carrot salads and that would be a pity, wouldn’t it, because grated carrot salads are rather nice, not to mention good for your complexion.

Not indispensable but nice to have:

- A mandoline, to slice vegetables and fruit quickly and in thin, regular slices. It can also be used to cut matchsticks or crinkled slices, which is pretty neat, and chunks of your fingers, which is pretty painful (be careful with that thing). Depending on your budget, you can go all out and get a professional model (mine is a Bron) or buy a cheaper plastic one outside any kitchen store: the latter may not have as long a life, but it will work acceptably well.
- A microplane zester
clip_image001[9] to grate citrus zest, cheese, ginger, chocolate, etc. finely and effortlessly.

Appliances

- Mixers, food processors, etc. The only choice is a Cuisinart, all others fall very short of working well. I also splurged on a stand mixer for baking. : this one mixes batters, whips whatever you want it to (to a certain extent), and kneads dough without hop-hopping across the counter.
- A digital timer, preferably magnetic, so it can live on the fridge door.

-

Not indispensable, but nice to have:

- A rice cooker for perfect rice you don’t need to babysit. (The best deals on those can often be found at Asian supermarkets.)
- A fondue pot. We only use it a handful of times each winter, admittedly, but these occasions are always so convivial and fun that I find it worth allotting the pot a bit of storage space.
- An electric Champion juicer, it makes great juice, nut butters, shaved ice and awesome sorbets.  The one I have is 30 years old and still going strong.

-  A citrus juice press- because a tall glass of freshly squeezed orange juice is what winter mornings are all about.